We drove through Felipe Carrilo Puerto several times, but never had time to stop and look around. I remembered that the town was associated with the Caste War started around 1850. The legend says that a talking cross was giving Mayans tactical advise during the war. The fact is that they were on the winning side for very long time for a movement that, like others where the cards are not distributed equally, was sure to be lost in the end. The puzzling part to me is why the Maya believed that a cross, the symbol of the oppressor's imported faith, would be helping them, the oppressed, against the cross waving oppressor. Anyway, we finally had some extra time to stop and look for the talking cross.